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dish soap..

 
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 19, 2007 10:53 pm    Post subject: dish soap.. Reply with quote

hey guys. i used to read this group a long time ago when i was
planning on getting a lathe. i've finally got one and have been
practicing on some of the box elder that my property is afflicted
with. so far just basic stuff between centers, but i'd like to get
into bowls and vessels. when i was last here there seemed to be a lot
of debate on whether the dish soap soaking thing worked well, ok, or
not at all. have more of you tried it? is there a consensus now?

thanks
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George
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 20, 2007 1:42 am    Post subject: Re: dish soap.. Reply with quote

<weaklingX@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1184867581.848492.55990@d55g2000hsg.googlegroups.com...
Quote:
hey guys. i used to read this group a long time ago when i was
planning on getting a lathe. i've finally got one and have been
practicing on some of the box elder that my property is afflicted
with. so far just basic stuff between centers, but i'd like to get
into bowls and vessels. when i was last here there seemed to be a lot
of debate on whether the dish soap soaking thing worked well, ok, or
not at all. have more of you tried it? is there a consensus now?


Works for what?

From the willow bowl update, a couple of glowing reviews here.
http://www.woodturningonline.com/Turning/Turning_articles.html

Of course there are people there who claim you can speed drying of wood by
adding water, too. Seems odd, doesn't it?

BTW, it isn't soap, it's detergent.

Wouldn't put much faith in it for anything but a sanding aid.
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Leif Thorvaldson
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 20, 2007 2:03 am    Post subject: Re: dish soap.. Reply with quote

<weaklingX@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1184867581.848492.55990@d55g2000hsg.googlegroups.com...
Quote:
hey guys. i used to read this group a long time ago when i was
planning on getting a lathe. i've finally got one and have been
practicing on some of the box elder that my property is afflicted
with. so far just basic stuff between centers, but i'd like to get
into bowls and vessels. when i was last here there seemed to be a lot
of debate on whether the dish soap soaking thing worked well, ok, or
not at all. have more of you tried it? is there a consensus now?

thanks

In the immortal words of the nearly sainted Algore, the debate is over!! The
concensus is in!! LDD rocks!! 8^) *Ducking now to avoid the incoming
rounds!*

Leif
>
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BillinDetroit
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 20, 2007 5:24 am    Post subject: Re: dish soap.. Reply with quote

Leif Thorvaldson wrote:

Quote:
In the immortal words of the nearly sainted Algore, the debate is over!! The
concensus is in!! LDD rocks!! 8^) *Ducking now to avoid the incoming
rounds!*

Leif


Don't duck 'em, chuck 'em! (And post pix of how they turned out!)

Bill

--
I'm not not at the above address.
http://nmwoodworks.com


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BeeFlow
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 20, 2007 5:24 am    Post subject: Re: dish soap.. Reply with quote

<weaklingX@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1184867581.848492.55990@d55g2000hsg.googlegroups.com...
Quote:
hey guys. i used to read this group a long time ago when i was
planning on getting a lathe. i've finally got one and have been
practicing on some of the box elder that my property is afflicted
with. so far just basic stuff between centers, but i'd like to get
into bowls and vessels. when i was last here there seemed to be a lot
of debate on whether the dish soap soaking thing worked well, ok, or
not at all. have more of you tried it? is there a consensus now?

thanks

It makes the sawdust taste funny.




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Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
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robo hippy
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 27, 2007 7:57 pm    Post subject: Re: dish soap.. Reply with quote

Well, as far as soaking times go, I usually will soak for 24 hours
minimum. Some times for up to a week. I have noticed that when I soak
for a couple of days, there are a lot of micro bubbles, it the perfect
shape of the bowl, on top of the soap solution, more of a foam than
bubbles. The soap works its way through the wood. When the blank is
dry, there is no scent left, and no taste. I do rinse the bowls off
before I let them dry. If soap dries on the bowl, it leaves a gummy
spot that clogs up the sanding discs. I do use power sanders, and they
clean up easily with the rubber cleaner sticks. I don't sand and
finish right after soaking, as it is a lot easier to sand when dry,
and the sand paper doesn't get so much build up on it that you have to
clean off. As far as movement, I had a madrone bowl that finished
drying and moving at 4 to 6 inches high, 13 inches long, and 9 inches
wide. Madrone moves more than any other wood I have used. Other woods
move less. If I were to sand and finish before the wood dries, I
imagine that there could be less movement, but I like the warped
bowls. As far as the mess goes, it is well worth it for how much
easier it makes the sanding. Cherry doesn't burn, big leaf maple
doesn't glaze over, and harder woods seem much softer. Yes, I do use
slower sanding speeds on my drill, to the point of putting pads under
the trigger to keep the speeds down to 600 rpm or less. This doesn't
effect the time involved in sanding, and in some instances even makes
it go faster. It works for me. The only down side is having to dump
the soap when it gets used. Since I use a lot of different woods, the
color of the soap eventually goes very dark, and this can darken the
woods that are soaking. Down the sink, or on an ant hill.
robo hippy

On Jul 24, 3:22 am, "George" <geo...@home.net> wrote:
Quote:
"Leif Thorvaldson" <L...@mashell.com> wrote in message

news:13ab815938iki01@corp.supernews.com...

Soak times are so short, and with no agitation provided, penetration of
this alcohol is not much behind that other fictional process. Expect
very little on the outside of the bowl, where you've jammed the pores
with centrifuged water, and little better inside, where the water's been
replaced by air.

===>Not sure what you are referring to here, George. Are you referring to
alcohol soaking or LDD? If LDD, it doesn't meet with my experience using
the "fictional" process. Jammed the pores with centrifugal water? That is
quite a feat, I would think and cause cell collapse throughout the wall of
the item.

Yep, alcohol's alcohol whether it's got one or three hydroxyl groups.
Mixing molecules in confined spaces goes slowly when there's nothing but
Brownian movement.

The wonder of language is that different words mean different things. For
instance a cell is closed, a pore is open. A vessel has a pore at each end.
Unless it's the one you filled to overflowing by spinning the piece as you
cut it. Surely you have noticed that the interior of a green bowl is much
dryer than the out? Not unusual to have standing (or dripping) water on the
end grain.

I like to eject as much as possible by using compressed air from inside. If
it takes a couple days off the time it takes to pass through the mildew
point, I count it as electricity well spent. Try it on white woods.
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