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cold blueing chemicals...

 
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Al A.
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 30, 2007 1:09 am    Post subject: cold blueing chemicals... Reply with quote

Hi All,
I am looking to blue some small parts (a flash hider, "claw" type
scope mount, and misc small tools & doo-dads, etc.) and was wondering
what the collective RCM wisdom on cold blueing chemicals is. It is not
necessary that these have a deep polished show-grade finish, these
aren't show-pieces. Mostly looking to have stuff look "finished" and not
have rust develop on everything. This is on steel and for occasional
(few times/year) use. I would like a black finish or something close to
it.

A perusal of the Brownells catalog and website reveals a number of
different brands and formulations. Any favorites?

Quite a few years ago, I used some of the Birchwood-Casey
bought-it-at-K-Mart stuff, mostly with pretty incosistent and sort of
blah results. Is that about what I can expect from any cold blue?

Any ideas or alternatives?

Thanks for any ideas,
AL A.
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Ecnerwal
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 30, 2007 1:09 am    Post subject: Re: cold blueing chemicals... Reply with quote

In article <wMGdnZobiad3uqjbnZ2dnUVZ_gCdnZ2d@comcast.com>,
"Al A." <alanganes@comcast.net> wrote:

Quote:
Any ideas or alternatives?

Go hot and Parkerize (phospate) it? My understanding is that it's far
more effective against rust, and given "small parts" cooking should not
be a big deal - perhaps an old coffee can and a hot plate with a pot of
water to set the coffee can in?

--
Cats, coffee, chocolate...vices to live by
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Guest






PostPosted: Mon Apr 30, 2007 1:09 am    Post subject: Re: cold blueing chemicals... Reply with quote

On Apr 29, 5:17 pm, "Al A." <alanga...@comcast.net> wrote:
Quote:
Hi All,
I am looking to blue some small parts (a flash hider, "claw" type
scope mount, and misc small tools & doo-dads, etc.) and was wondering
what the collective RCM wisdom on cold blueing chemicals is. It is not
necessary that these have a deep polished show-grade finish, these
aren't show-pieces. Mostly looking to have stuff look "finished" and not
have rust develop on everything. This is on steel and for occasional
(few times/year) use. I would like a black finish or something close to
it.

A perusal of the Brownells catalog and website reveals a number of
different brands and formulations. Any favorites?

Quite a few years ago, I used some of the Birchwood-Casey
bought-it-at-K-Mart stuff, mostly with pretty incosistent and sort of
blah results. Is that about what I can expect from any cold blue?

Any ideas or alternatives?

Thanks for any ideas,
AL A.

Oxpho Blue has been good stuff, it's almost as tough as a hot-salts
job. Downside is that it's miserable to apply evenly over large
surfaces with no practice. If your parts are small enough to dunk, do
that. Works better if the parts are warmed. Parts have to be CLEAN,
no fingerprints. Bronze wool works well to get the smut off
afterwards.

Alternatives, Dicropan IM or the old Herter's Belgian Blue. Both are
kind of pricey to order with HazMat charges. Dicropan gives you a
black finish, the Herter's gives you a real blue. Both take nothing
more than a tank of boiling water and CLEAN parts. You need some way
to card off the deposit, steel wool, bronze wool, rotary brush,
whatever. You can do a whole rifle action in an afternoon. Both are
a lot more resistant to wear than cold blues.

Did I mention you have to have CLEAN parts? Brake cleaner, boiling
TSP, acetone, MEK, TCE, freon head cleaner, carbon tet and dry
cleaning fluid have all been used. Alcohol doesn't cut it for
degreasing, isopropyl or rubbing. If you get spots that won't take,
grease is the culprit. With Oxpho Blue, you can "rub it in" with the
wool to shift the grease, but chances are the surface will be mottled.

Stan
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