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cogging of Hardinge lathe spindle

 
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 29, 2006 6:30 am    Post subject: cogging of Hardinge lathe spindle Reply with quote

I have just aquired a 1955 Hardinge HLV-BK lathe, it has been sitting
for a while, is missing some parts (compound rest, collet closer, drive
belt), has some light surface rust in places, but looks more or less
sound. I have not been able to power it up due to a missing drive belt
and electrical problems but I feel some slight cogging as I turn the
spindle by hand. My interpetation of this is that the grease in the
bearings has hardened up a bit from sitting for ten years and that once
the bearings heat up a bit it will run smooth. I plan to run the
spindle at low rpm for a few minutes to check this theory.
Should I do this a recipe for ruining some expensive bearings?

stan
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Gunner
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 29, 2006 10:38 pm    Post subject: Re: cogging of Hardinge lathe spindle Reply with quote

On 28 Aug 2006 18:32:42 -0700, sbaer@robustmachine.com wrote:

Quote:
I have just aquired a 1955 Hardinge HLV-BK lathe, it has been sitting
for a while, is missing some parts (compound rest, collet closer, drive
belt), has some light surface rust in places, but looks more or less
sound. I have not been able to power it up due to a missing drive belt
and electrical problems but I feel some slight cogging as I turn the
spindle by hand. My interpetation of this is that the grease in the
bearings has hardened up a bit from sitting for ten years and that once
the bearings heat up a bit it will run smooth. I plan to run the
spindle at low rpm for a few minutes to check this theory.
Should I do this a recipe for ruining some expensive bearings?

stan

Run it first. Check the headstock over the bearings for over temp.
Start off just as slow as you can, then increase the speed 500 rpm at
a time until you get to 2500 rmp..at 15 minute increments. keep
checking for heat.

However..based on your description of the machines condition..Im gonna
bet the bearings are toast. Folks strip stuff off broken machines,
not machines in good running condition.

Btw..the BK designation indicates its British made under license.

Gunner



"If I'm going to reach out to the the Democrats then I need a third
hand.There's no way I'm letting go of my wallet or my gun while they're
around."

"Democrat. In the dictionary it's right after demobilize and right
before demode` (out of fashion).
-Buddy Jordan 2001
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jim rozen
Guest





PostPosted: Wed Aug 30, 2006 5:18 am    Post subject: Re: cogging of Hardinge lathe spindle Reply with quote

In article <1156898303.595098.241720@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com>,
sbaer@robustmachine.com says...
Quote:


I have a feeling you are right about the toasted bearings, I have read
the instructions you prepared about repacing them (Thanks). Would you
happen to know if the bearings in this machine are interchangeable with
those from DV-59? I am thinking of buying one of these for parts.

What, to remove the bearings from a donor machine, and installing
them in yours? That's not done. By the time you remove them from
the donor machine and re-install them on a different one, you might
just as well purchase electric motor grade bearings and be done with
it.

Basically the price of admission to the 'change a bearing in a lathe
headstock' school is about a hundred bucks per bearing. That's not
a lot considering what you get for your money. Take yours apart, clean
the old ones, find out what went wrong, re-install them a couple of
times to get the drill down pat, then do the real ones.

You may well find that just getting the spindle *apart* is so much
fun you might want to go into the machine tool re-building business!

Jim


--
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please reply to:
JRR(zero) at pkmfgvm4 (dot) vnet (dot) ibm (dot) com
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Guest






PostPosted: Wed Aug 30, 2006 5:18 am    Post subject: Re: cogging of Hardinge lathe spindle Reply with quote

I have a feeling you are right about the toasted bearings, I have read
the instructions you prepared about repacing them (Thanks). Would you
happen to know if the bearings in this machine are interchangeable with
those from DV-59? I am thinking of buying one of these for parts.

stan
Quote:

Run it first. Check the headstock over the bearings for over temp.
Start off just as slow as you can, then increase the speed 500 rpm at
a time until you get to 2500 rmp..at 15 minute increments. keep
checking for heat.

However..based on your description of the machines condition..Im gonna
bet the bearings are toast. Folks strip stuff off broken machines,
not machines in good running condition.

Btw..the BK designation indicates its British made under license.

Gunner



"If I'm going to reach out to the the Democrats then I need a third
hand.There's no way I'm letting go of my wallet or my gun while they're
around."

"Democrat. In the dictionary it's right after demobilize and right
before demode` (out of fashion).
-Buddy Jordan 2001
Back to top
Gunner
Guest





PostPosted: Wed Aug 30, 2006 5:20 am    Post subject: Re: cogging of Hardinge lathe spindle Reply with quote

On 29 Aug 2006 17:38:23 -0700, sbaer@robustmachine.com wrote:

Quote:

I have a feeling you are right about the toasted bearings, I have read
the instructions you prepared about repacing them (Thanks). Would you
happen to know if the bearings in this machine are interchangeable with
those from DV-59? I am thinking of buying one of these for parts.

Probably not. On yours..you can likely pull the spindle and read the
bearing number without blowing up the bearings.

Btw..the bearing instructions are NOT for your model. Yours uses
angular contact bearings at the front (1) and two standard bearings at
the rear IRRC...though I may be completly wrong.Ive not seen one in a
while..the Brit machines are fairly rare here in the US..though I have
a Brit TFB...

If it has a hatch at the back of the headstock..there are other
instructions on the net for changing those types of bearings.

Ive lost the link for the proper instruction manual..but someone here
will have it.

Gunner

Quote:
stan

Run it first. Check the headstock over the bearings for over temp.
Start off just as slow as you can, then increase the speed 500 rpm at
a time until you get to 2500 rmp..at 15 minute increments. keep
checking for heat.

However..based on your description of the machines condition..Im gonna
bet the bearings are toast. Folks strip stuff off broken machines,
not machines in good running condition.

Btw..the BK designation indicates its British made under license.

Gunner



"If I'm going to reach out to the the Democrats then I need a third
hand.There's no way I'm letting go of my wallet or my gun while they're
around."

"Democrat. In the dictionary it's right after demobilize and right
before demode` (out of fashion).
-Buddy Jordan 2001



"If I'm going to reach out to the the Democrats then I need a third
hand.There's no way I'm letting go of my wallet or my gun while they're
around."

"Democrat. In the dictionary it's right after demobilize and right
before demode` (out of fashion).
-Buddy Jordan 2001
Back to top
Guest






PostPosted: Wed Aug 30, 2006 4:32 pm    Post subject: Re: cogging of Hardinge lathe spindle Reply with quote

Thanks for the heads up about the difference in bearings. I am going
to order the maintance manual from Hardinge if they still sell it.

Stan

Gunner wrote:
Quote:
On 29 Aug 2006 17:38:23 -0700, sbaer@robustmachine.com wrote:


I have a feeling you are right about the toasted bearings, I have read
the instructions you prepared about repacing them (Thanks). Would you
happen to know if the bearings in this machine are interchangeable with
those from DV-59? I am thinking of buying one of these for parts.

Probably not. On yours..you can likely pull the spindle and read the
bearing number without blowing up the bearings.

Btw..the bearing instructions are NOT for your model. Yours uses
angular contact bearings at the front (1) and two standard bearings at
the rear IRRC...though I may be completly wrong.Ive not seen one in a
while..the Brit machines are fairly rare here in the US..though I have
a Brit TFB...

If it has a hatch at the back of the headstock..there are other
instructions on the net for changing those types of bearings.

Ive lost the link for the proper instruction manual..but someone here
will have it.

Gunner

stan

Run it first. Check the headstock over the bearings for over temp.
Start off just as slow as you can, then increase the speed 500 rpm at
a time until you get to 2500 rmp..at 15 minute increments. keep
checking for heat.

However..based on your description of the machines condition..Im gonna
bet the bearings are toast. Folks strip stuff off broken machines,
not machines in good running condition.

Btw..the BK designation indicates its British made under license.

Gunner



"If I'm going to reach out to the the Democrats then I need a third
hand.There's no way I'm letting go of my wallet or my gun while they're
around."

"Democrat. In the dictionary it's right after demobilize and right
before demode` (out of fashion).
-Buddy Jordan 2001



"If I'm going to reach out to the the Democrats then I need a third
hand.There's no way I'm letting go of my wallet or my gun while they're
around."

"Democrat. In the dictionary it's right after demobilize and right
before demode` (out of fashion).
-Buddy Jordan 2001
Back to top
jim rozen
Guest





PostPosted: Thu Aug 31, 2006 2:05 am    Post subject: Re: cogging of Hardinge lathe spindle Reply with quote

In article <hjt9f213f0vrk06iqfur97988v0fkvqfqa@4ax.com>, Gunner says...

Quote:
Btw..the bearing instructions are NOT for your model. Yours uses
angular contact bearings at the front (1) and two standard bearings at
the rear IRRC...though I may be completly wrong.Ive not seen one in a
while..the Brit machines are fairly rare here in the US..though I have
a Brit TFB...

Most likely, an angular contact pair in the front, and single
angular contact bearing at the back, run in approximation of
radial mode. Often the outer race of the single rear bearing
is totally unconstrained in the axial direction, in hardinge's
setup of that era.

For gunner, photos of the headstock that got those new bearings:

<http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/BB59_4.jpg>

<http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/BB59_5.jpg>

<http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/BB59_6.jpg>

<http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/BB59_7.jpg>

<http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/BB59_8.jpg>

<http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/BB59_9.jpg>

Jim


--
==================================================
please reply to:
JRR(zero) at pkmfgvm4 (dot) vnet (dot) ibm (dot) com
==================================================
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Guest






PostPosted: Thu Aug 31, 2006 3:25 am    Post subject: Re: cogging of Hardinge lathe spindle Reply with quote

Why do they use an angular contact bearing at the back. If it floats
axially I would think the radial clearance would change.

stan

jim rozen wrote:
Quote:
In article <hjt9f213f0vrk06iqfur97988v0fkvqfqa@4ax.com>, Gunner says...

Btw..the bearing instructions are NOT for your model. Yours uses
angular contact bearings at the front (1) and two standard bearings at
the rear IRRC...though I may be completly wrong.Ive not seen one in a
while..the Brit machines are fairly rare here in the US..though I have
a Brit TFB...

Most likely, an angular contact pair in the front, and single
angular contact bearing at the back, run in approximation of
radial mode. Often the outer race of the single rear bearing
is totally unconstrained in the axial direction, in hardinge's
setup of that era.

For gunner, photos of the headstock that got those new bearings:

http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/BB59_4.jpg

http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/BB59_5.jpg

http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/BB59_6.jpg

http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/BB59_7.jpg

http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/BB59_8.jpg

http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/BB59_9.jpg

Jim


--
==================================================
please reply to:
JRR(zero) at pkmfgvm4 (dot) vnet (dot) ibm (dot) com
==================================================
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