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Posted: Thu Aug 10, 2006 6:32 pm Post subject: Heirloom tomatoes in Upper Midwest |
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Hi, We now have three ripening clusters of Stupice tomatoes, which
appear
like cherry tomatoes about 1 1/4" diameter, even though they are not
classified as such. Also a ripening Beam's Yellow Pear tomato which
appears
¾" long. How long should they remain ripe-on-the-vine for optimum
size and taste? Is the best time to pick after a full day of sun?
Regards, Phil |
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simy1 Guest
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Posted: Thu Aug 10, 2006 7:31 pm Post subject: Re: Heirloom tomatoes in Upper Midwest |
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silicontundra@yahoo.com wrote:
| Quote: | Hi, We now have three ripening clusters of Stupice tomatoes, which
appear
like cherry tomatoes about 1 1/4" diameter, even though they are not
classified as such. Also a ripening Beam's Yellow Pear tomato which
appears
¾" long. How long should they remain ripe-on-the-vine for optimum
size and taste? Is the best time to pick after a full day of sun?
Regards, Phil
|
You will have to taste them to find out. The taste depends on pH,
manuring, sunshine. I have both your varieties, and this year the YP
are sweeter than in the past. Mixed in with a sharper Stupice, they
make better yellow-red salads than in years past. Stupice is the
workhorse of the upper midwest tomato garden, great little tomato. |
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sherwindu Guest
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Posted: Fri Aug 11, 2006 10:54 am Post subject: Re: Heirloom tomatoes in Upper Midwest |
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Color is a good indicator. When the Yellow Pear turn completely yellow, that is
probably the optimum time. If you leave them on too long, they will start to
develop
a brownish cast, which is a sign of over ripeness. The red tomatoes behave
differently depending on variety. Some will turn completely red or purple,
while others stubbornly won't change color, close to the stem. I will give
these later tomatoes a few days of sun to completely color up, but if they start
showing signs of
over softness, I pick them anyways. The longer you can keep them on the vine
without spoiling, the sweeter they become. Once you sample taste them, you can
associate color with amount of ripeness.
Sherwin D.
silicontundra@yahoo.com wrote:
| Quote: | Hi, We now have three ripening clusters of Stupice tomatoes, which
appear
like cherry tomatoes about 1 1/4" diameter, even though they are not
classified as such. Also a ripening Beam's Yellow Pear tomato which
appears
¾" long. How long should they remain ripe-on-the-vine for optimum
size and taste? Is the best time to pick after a full day of sun?
Regards, Phil |
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Guest
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Posted: Fri Aug 25, 2006 2:27 am Post subject: Re: Heirloom tomatoes in Upper Midwest |
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simy1 wrote:
| Quote: | silicontundra@yahoo.com wrote:
Hi, We now have three ripening clusters of Stupice tomatoes, which
appear like cherry tomatoes about 1 1/4" diameter, even though they are not
You will have to taste them to find out. The taste depends on pH,
manuring, sunshine. I have both your varieties, and this year the YP
are sweeter than in the past. Mixed in with a sharper Stupice, they
make better yellow-red salads than in years past. Stupice is the
workhorse of the upper midwest tomato garden, great little tomato.
|
We made our first harvest last weekend. We had two Yellow Pears that
have
normal 3" size which were hibachi'd and tasted fine and were meaty. We
had about 20 Stupice that still only about 1 1/4" diameter. The
Brandywines are still all green but many fruits will be 3+ inch size
and
larger. Planted seedling 3rd week in June, about 3 wks after Memorial
Day last frost date. Our vines are quite tall, over 6 feet and
climbing! So far no disease or bugs; our first trial.
Why are our Brandywines taking so long? Why is there such a fruit size
difference between Stupice and Brandywines? Only one Brandywine showed
blossom end rot; bought some hydrated lime but not applied. They are
planted in same plot. Our first frost date is October 1st. Regards,
Phil |
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simy1 Guest
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Posted: Fri Aug 25, 2006 2:27 am Post subject: Re: Heirloom tomatoes in Upper Midwest |
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silicontundra@yahoo.com wrote:
| Quote: | simy1 wrote:
Why are our Brandywines taking so long? Why is there such a fruit size
difference between Stupice and Brandywines? Only one Brandywine showed
blossom end rot; bought some hydrated lime but not applied. They are
planted in same plot. Our first frost date is October 1st. Regards,
Phil
|
Brandywine are late season. Stupice are ultra early, and yellow pear
are early.
I use wood ash to lime my tomatoes (and everything else). If you were
to get San Marzano and Early Girl, you would be growing every tomato I
am growing. |
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Guest
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Posted: Fri Aug 25, 2006 2:27 am Post subject: Re: Heirloom tomatoes in Upper Midwest |
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simy1 wrote:
| Quote: | silicontundra@yahoo.com wrote:
simy1 wrote:
Why are our Brandywines taking so long? Why is there such a fruit size
difference between Stupice and Brandywines? Only one Brandywine showed
blossom end rot; bought some hydrated lime but not applied. They are
planted in same plot. Our first frost date is October 1st. Regards,
Phil
Brandywine are late season. Stupice are ultra early, and yellow pear
are early.
I use wood ash to lime my tomatoes (and everything else). If you were
to get San Marzano and Early Girl, you would be growing every tomato I
am growing.
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Since Minneapolis, Twin Cities, Minn end of tomato growing season is
possibly 5 weeks away should we be doing any pruning to enhance fruit
ripening? The vines are growing prolifically right now, 6 ft going on 7
ft, with lots of blossoms and setting. We have stopped fertilizing
about 2 weeks ago.
On the Stupice, will reducing fruit load mean the fruit will be larger?
Right now they seem to be OK fresh and maybe bagged for the freezer.
Certainly not for canning!
Eg, cut off new blossoms, top the leader, prune off the suckers, other
ideas?
Regards, Phil |
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Penelope Periwinkle Guest
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Posted: Fri Aug 25, 2006 7:57 pm Post subject: Re: Heirloom tomatoes in Upper Midwest |
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On 24 Aug 2006 14:57:43 -0700, silicontundra@yahoo.com wrote:
| Quote: | Why are our Brandywines taking so long? Why is there such a fruit size
difference between Stupice and Brandywines?
|
They're different varieties, that's why. Brandywines have been
selected to produce fewer but larger tomatoes, and it takes longer
for them to grow. Stupice have been selected to produce lots of
tomatoes quickly in cooler temperatures, thus the size of the tomatoes
is smaller.
This fall, get some gardening catalogues or peruse the web for
heirloom tomatoes. Read up on the different varieties, find out which
ones do well in your area. Most catalog descriptions tell you how
large the fruit is, and an approximate number of days from
transplanting to ripe fruit. Think about what you want to do with the
tomato; some are better for eating fresh, some make better tomato
paste, and some are recommended for canning. Do you want large,
slicing tomatoes, tomatoes for salad, ect. And then try not to get
carried away by all the luscious sounding tomatoes, and order ten
times more than you could ever plant!
I grow a mix. I like Stupice for my early tomatoes. In my zone 8 yard,
I can sometimes get ripe tomatoes the first week of May with Stupice.
But I like large slicing tomatoes, too, so I grow a few Brandywines. I
tried a new tomato this year, Tropic, and I was very pleased with its
performance. I also gave Ozark Pinks a try, and they did ok. I bought
a tomato that started with a "z" at the Spring Flower Festival from a
man with an heirloom tomato booth that did well, but I lost the
blasted tag! I hope he comes back next year.
Penelope
--
"Maybe you'd like to ask the Wizard for a heart."
"ElissaAnn" <elissa@everybodycansing.com> |
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simy1 Guest
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Posted: Fri Aug 25, 2006 8:29 pm Post subject: Re: Heirloom tomatoes in Upper Midwest |
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silicontundra@yahoo.com wrote:
| Quote: |
Since Minneapolis, Twin Cities, Minn end of tomato growing season is
possibly 5 weeks away should we be doing any pruning to enhance fruit
ripening? The vines are growing prolifically right now, 6 ft going on 7
ft, with lots of blossoms and setting. We have stopped fertilizing
about 2 weeks ago.
On the Stupice, will reducing fruit load mean the fruit will be larger?
Right now they seem to be OK fresh and maybe bagged for the freezer.
Certainly not for canning!
Eg, cut off new blossoms, top the leader, prune off the suckers, other
ideas?
Regards, Phil
|
don't know how to advise you on this one. I never do anything of the
sort, though I do get earlier and poorer fruiting from stressed plants.
In another post someone has suggested driving a spade in the ground
near the plant to cut part of the roots. |
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Guest
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Posted: Mon Aug 28, 2006 7:20 am Post subject: Re: Heirloom tomatoes in Upper Midwest |
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Penelope Periwinkle wrote:
| Quote: | On 24 Aug 2006 14:57:43 -0700, silicontundra@yahoo.com wrote:
Why are our Brandywines taking so long? Why is there such a fruit size
difference between Stupice and Brandywines?
They're different varieties, that's why. Brandywines have been
selected to produce fewer but larger tomatoes, and it takes longer
for them to grow. Stupice have been selected to produce lots of
tomatoes quickly in cooler temperatures, thus the size of the tomatoes
is smaller.
This fall, get some gardening catalogues or peruse the web for
heirloom tomatoes. Read up on the different varieties, find out which
ones do well in your area.
|
We bought Stupice seedlings from Seed Savers.org in Decorah, Iowa.
Their description in catalog is:
"One of the four original Czechoslovakian varieties sent to the U. S.
by Milan Sodomka. Potato-leaf 4' plants loaded with 2½" by 2" diameter
fruits borne in clusters. Extremely early, great flavor. Heavy yields
all season. Produces well in northern climates. Indeterminate, 55-70
days from transplant."
Our Stupice fruit is 1" too small. It seems that the Brandywines are
more typical,
"Our best selling tomato and one of the best tasting tomatoes available
to gardeners today. Large pink beefsteak fruits to 2 pounds. Incredibly
rich, delightfully intense tomato flavor. Indeterminate, 90 days from
transplant."
We will harvest our first Brandywine tomorrow and tell you our opinion.
| Quote: |
I grow a mix. I like Stupice for my early tomatoes. In my zone 8 yard,
I can sometimes get ripe tomatoes the first week of May with Stupice.
But I like large slicing tomatoes, too, so I grow a few Brandywines. |
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Guest
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Posted: Wed Oct 11, 2006 11:46 pm Post subject: Re: Heirloom tomatoes in Upper Midwest |
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William L. Rose wrote:
| Quote: | Silicon,
I guess if I were you I would harvest everything and put the green
tomatoes on a window sill to ripen.
If you have the time and the energy, you may want to build a green house
(tunnel) over your tomatoes, if you think there may be more good days
ahead.
Hi William and All, |
As the snow and ice drop into Minnesota today, 10/11, from the North
Pole, we have harvested all the red (reddish) tomatoes and green
peppers. Our top bearing heirloom tomatoes were Brandywine, Stupice,
Beam's Yellow Pear and least Amish Paste.
We did experience mildew disease late in the season. But decided not to
use the copper mildewcide so late in the season; just killed watering,
and let our sandy soil stop it spread. The vines are held up with many
6ft bamboo poles.
The Beam's Yellow Pears were the most prolific bearing, but most are
still green and the snow is gonna cover the still blooming flowers. The
Beam's were least favored, as the tomatoes are too small, about 1 1/4"
long and the flesh tastes meally and tasteless. However, the cluster
bunches are attractive looking. Regards, Phil
| Quote: |
During the cool, rainy spell, the Stupice are showing skin cracking on
the shoulder of almost every tomato. What causes this?
Should we harvest all tomatoes (ripe or not) during the eve of the
first hard frost?
Regards, Phil |
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William L. Rose Guest
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Posted: Mon Oct 16, 2006 10:16 am Post subject: Re: Heirloom tomatoes in Upper Midwest |
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Phil,
the Summer was disappointing here in Northern California. The season got
off to a late start, for us, with heavy rains through April. Normally we
are in the ground by the first of April. I haven't grown heirloom
tomatoes before but they have given a good accounting of themselves.
They even ripened before my "Early Girls". Right now, I am where we
normally are by the first of August. But of course the mildew has
arrived, killing off the squash, except for the lemon cucumber, and is
starting to move on to the tomatoes. This must sound wonderful to you,
but it is not what the locals expect here.
The Brandywines have been great, large, meaty, with good acid to give
them that tang. The Striped Germans where large and meaty but with
decidedly less tang (acidity). Both were good and both give lots of
liquids if left over night. I'm glad that I planted some Juliets for my
salsa sauce. The Early Girls, First Lady, and the Juliets are still
producing unblemished fruit, whereas the Brandywines and the Striped
Germans are showing considerable cosmetic damage.
I am surprised how quickly the Brandywine and Striped German deteriorate
once they are picked. But they are large and delicious.
Next year, I hope to try more types of tomatoes but I know that the
Early Girls, First Lady, Juliets, Brandywine and Striped Germans will
figure into my plantings.
My biggest failure this year has been my peppers. The jalapenos and the
habaneros have done just fine but the milder Italian and Hungarian
haven't had the heat or time that they needed.
This was my first year to try to grow from seed and these and the
medicinal herbs were among my disasters. Wait till next year.
Mean while I have been working the grape harvest for the last six weeks.
We have brought in half of the winery's harvest and plan to finish this
Friday! Lordy, Lordy. Overtime is not all that one could hope for.
Down with Bush.
Peace.
- Bill
| Quote: | Hi William and All,
As the snow and ice drop into Minnesota today, 10/11, from the North
Pole, we have harvested all the red (reddish) tomatoes and green
peppers. Our top bearing heirloom tomatoes were Brandywine, Stupice,
Beam's Yellow Pear and least Amish Paste.
We did experience mildew disease late in the season. But decided not to
use the copper mildewcide so late in the season; just killed watering,
and let our sandy soil stop it spread. The vines are held up with many
6ft bamboo poles.
The Beam's Yellow Pears were the most prolific bearing, but most are
still green and the snow is gonna cover the still blooming flowers. The
Beam's were least favored, as the tomatoes are too small, about 1 1/4"
long and the flesh tastes meally and tasteless. However, the cluster
bunches are attractive looking. Regards, Phil
During the cool, rainy spell, the Stupice are showing skin cracking on
the shoulder of almost every tomato. What causes this?
Should we harvest all tomatoes (ripe or not) during the eve of the
first hard frost?
Regards, Phil |
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William Rose Guest
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Posted: Wed Oct 18, 2006 9:57 am Post subject: Re: Heirloom tomatoes in Upper Midwest |
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Phil,
the cracking in your tomatoes was due to excessive expansion in the
tomatoes because of absorbing too much water.
My cucurbits (sp?) have fallen to the midew.
The late rain (April) here in Northern California will probably
translate into fewer excellent wines this year. The mildew established
itself in the flowers and subsequently in the grapes which are now
molding from the inside out.
Some of my experimental plants (tomatoes and peppers) are so close to
producing fruit but the night time temps are falling into the low
forties and the plants aren't responding. November is a couple of weeks
away and the chance of more heat seems very unlikely.
I probably won't try the First Lady tomato again because the Striped
German and Branywine are so good. I need a good early season tomato and
maybe a good paste tomato.
I definitley will try to get an earlier start will my seedlings and
hopefully the weather will cooperate.
I was trying for a fall garden, but one of my dogs wiped out 2/3s of it.
Sigh.
Anyway, let me know how your tomatoes do next year and which ones you
prefer.
Stay warm.
- Bill
Coloribus gustibus non disputatum. |
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