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eddie_toft
Joined: 04 Jun 2005
Posts: 1
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 Posted: Sat Jun 04, 2005 4:55 pm Post subject: Plans for bench mounted power hacksaw |
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Hi,
Has anyone come across any plans for making a bench mounted powered hacksaw using either 12" blades or junior blades etc.
Any help would be greatley appreciated,
P.S. i do have access to a lathe and a good qty of steel and aluminium etc.
Many thanks,
Eddie.
 [/b] |
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Carl Byrns
Guest
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| Posted: Sun Oct 08, 2006 4:11 am Post subject: Re: Plaster in a refrigerator door? PLS HELP |
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"sasha``" <no@spam.invalid> wrote in message
news:12iekkg1dvuni6d@news.supernews.com...
| Quote: | Sorry, I'm not sure if this is the right thread i should post this...
Just last night, my younger sister left the candle lighted on top of
our refrigerator. The melted wax might have caused the cloth to
start a fire but I'm not really certain. It was a good thing that I
saw the fire and I immediately poured some water. :(
no one knew how long the fire was but it caused damage to the
refrigerator door. there was a big hole and a little part of the
refrigerator gasket melted.
I don't wanna replace the ref door for its gonna be costly. Would it
be all right if I'm going to put Plaster of Paris to cover the big
hole? what should i do??? :(
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Before you get to carried away, try to find a used replacement door. Lots of
local appliance stores keep 'trade-in' appliances around as a cheap parts
source- get out the phone book and call around.
-Carl |
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Bob Engelhardt
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| Posted: Sun Oct 08, 2006 2:38 pm Post subject: Re: Plaster in a refrigerator door? PLS HELP |
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Does anybody else smell a troll? This post seems kinda' fishy, err ...
trolly. Not likely to cause a lot of controversy, but weird. Bob |
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Terry Keeley
Guest
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| Posted: Tue Oct 17, 2006 1:17 pm Post subject: Re: Aluminum gear? |
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Thanks for the good info, I'll have a look at changing the tooth count but
it might mean having to change the center to center distance of the shafts.
I wasn't really having a wear problem I don't think, more just overloading
by the way the teeth were stripped off quickly.
I've ordered a stainless gear from http://www.qtcgears.com/ and will give
that a try...
"Joseph Gwinn" <JoeGwinn@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:JoeGwinn-C6519E.21444516102006@comcast.dca.giganews.com...
| Quote: | In article <-p-dnbp9i9mRjqnYnZ2dnUVZ_oWdnZ2d@giganews.com>,
"Terry Keeley" <tkee(no spam)@rogers.com> wrote:
Nylon does that. How cold is cold, in degrees?
Last time I was out it was about 6C (42F).
Not all that cold. The gears were overloaded, it seems.
There are other plastics used for gears. Delrin, for instance. Or
the
traditional choice, machined cloth-reinforced phenolic.
Was told on another forum to try PEEK, looked at the specs and carbon
filled
has a tensile strength up to 40K psi. Was able to track down a min.
order
of 1 foot of 1.25" rod, a little pricy at $450!!!
Ouch. Brass is looking better and better.
What's the torque? The wattage or horsepower?
Not sure the exact torque, might be around 3 HP.
Three HP. That's a bit too much for plastic, especially with such a
small drive pinion: 1.25" in diameter with 20 teeth driving 30 teeth, at
30,000 rpm.
If the gear will be metal (brass or aluminium), the pinion would need
to
be steel. Aluminum on brass won't last long.
Thanks, that's what I was wondering. How about stainless steel and
brass?
Stainless steel on brass works fine. But don't forget the oil film. At
30,000 rpm, how to get the right amount of oil onto the meshing surfaces
will require some thought. Oil baths don't work at this speed. Nor
does grease. The oil or grease just get pushed aside. Mist oiling
could work.
I would also suggest changing the tooth counts slightly, as has been
suggested, to a mutually prime set of counts, to spread the wear out.
Like 29:19= 1.526316.... How accurate must the 1:5 ratio be?
Joe Gwinn |
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