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stig
Guest
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 Posted: Wed Apr 13, 2005 9:22 am Post subject: titanium |
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Is there a process to weld or braze titanium in a home-shop
conditions? I tried silver solder, brass etc, to no avail, does
not wet titanium as far as I can see.
thanks
Stan |
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jackK
Guest
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| Posted: Wed Apr 13, 2005 11:37 am Post subject: Re: titanium |
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stig wrote:
| Quote: | Is there a process to weld or braze titanium in a home-shop
conditions? I tried silver solder, brass etc, to no avail, does
not wet titanium as far as I can see.
thanks
Stan
The guys at this newsgroup can help. |
sci.engr.joining.welding |
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Ernie Leimkuhler
Guest
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| Posted: Wed Apr 13, 2005 11:46 am Post subject: Re: titanium |
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In article <BuCdnaM3tJw-McHfRVn-vg@rogers.com>, stig
<stan.stelmach@rogers.com> wrote:
| Quote: | Is there a process to weld or braze titanium in a home-shop
conditions? I tried silver solder, brass etc, to no avail, does
not wet titanium as far as I can see.
thanks
Stan
|
There is a titanium solder, but it is extremely expensive.
It is used in Aerospace.
TIG welding it is easy as long as the entire heat affected zone is
purged of air with argon. |
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Peter Grey
Guest
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| Posted: Wed Apr 13, 2005 7:32 pm Post subject: Re: titanium |
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"Ernie Leimkuhler" <ernie@stagesmith.com> wrote in message
news:130420050049008729%ernie@stagesmith.com...
| Quote: |
TIG welding it is easy as long as the entire heat affected zone is
purged of air with argon.
|
How does one do that? Does it always require a cabinet or dam of some sort,
or could one modify a torch or use it in a way which keeps argon on the HAZ?
Peter |
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Tim Williams
Guest
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| Posted: Wed Apr 13, 2005 9:36 pm Post subject: Re: titanium |
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"Peter Grey" <pgrey@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:fYa7e.5838$An2.4946@newsread2.news.pas.earthlink.net...
| Quote: | How does one do that? Does it always require a cabinet
|
You can purge a glovebox, yes. I would suppose two gas nozzles, one on each
side, would be a little tricky, but not impossible.
Tim
--
"California is the breakfast state: fruits, nuts and flakes."
Website: http://webpages.charter.net/dawill/tmoranwms |
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Ernie Leimkuhler
Guest
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| Posted: Thu Apr 14, 2005 12:28 am Post subject: Re: titanium |
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In article <fYa7e.5838$An2.4946@newsread2.news.pas.earthlink.net>,
Peter Grey <pgrey@earthlink.net> wrote:
| Quote: | "Ernie Leimkuhler" <ernie@stagesmith.com> wrote in message
news:130420050049008729%ernie@stagesmith.com...
TIG welding it is easy as long as the entire heat affected zone is
purged of air with argon.
How does one do that? Does it always require a cabinet or dam of some sort,
or could one modify a torch or use it in a way which keeps argon on the HAZ?
Peter
|
You can easily make a glove-box or glove-bag, or for small parts you
can make up gas jets to protect a small area.
Tubes can be purged from the inside by flooding argon down the tube.
I made a large acrylic glove box last year, but I have since had a
better idea.
Make an acrylic box big enough for your pieces with glove holes in one
side.
Leave the top off.
Make a visqueen plastic bag that fits inside the tank and tape it
around the top edges of the tank.
You have to have some holes in the box for the torch hoses, and argon
feed.
Have one hole big enough to connect a small shopvac.
Turn on the shopvac to suck out all the air and make the bag conform to
the inside of the tank.
Now close off that hole and flood in the argon.
Leave a small hole at the top of the bag to allow gases to escape.
Argon is heavier than air.
As the box and bag inflate the air will leak out the top.
Once the bag is completely inflated above the box you have a pretty
pure argon atmosphere, because it had very little air in it to start
with.
If you have a fixed rigid box you have to flow argon through it for a
while to make sure you have gotten all the air out. |
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Ernie Leimkuhler
Guest
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| Posted: Thu Apr 14, 2005 12:30 am Post subject: Re: titanium |
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In article <fYa7e.5838$An2.4946@newsread2.news.pas.earthlink.net>,
Peter Grey <pgrey@earthlink.net> wrote:
| Quote: | "Ernie Leimkuhler" <ernie@stagesmith.com> wrote in message
news:130420050049008729%ernie@stagesmith.com...
TIG welding it is easy as long as the entire heat affected zone is
purged of air with argon.
How does one do that? Does it always require a cabinet or dam of some sort,
or could one modify a torch or use it in a way which keeps argon on the HAZ?
Peter
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Here is one that CK sells
http://www.ckworldwide.com/Purge.htm |
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Peter Grey
Guest
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| Posted: Thu Apr 14, 2005 12:40 am Post subject: Re: titanium |
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Thanks for the info.
Peter
"Ernie Leimkuhler" <ernie@stagesmith.com> wrote in message
news:130420051331407920%ernie@stagesmith.com...
| Quote: | In article <fYa7e.5838$An2.4946@newsread2.news.pas.earthlink.net>,
Peter Grey <pgrey@earthlink.net> wrote:
"Ernie Leimkuhler" <ernie@stagesmith.com> wrote in message
news:130420050049008729%ernie@stagesmith.com...
TIG welding it is easy as long as the entire heat affected zone is
purged of air with argon.
How does one do that? Does it always require a cabinet or dam of some
sort,
or could one modify a torch or use it in a way which keeps argon on the
HAZ?
Peter
You can easily make a glove-box or glove-bag, or for small parts you
can make up gas jets to protect a small area.
Tubes can be purged from the inside by flooding argon down the tube.
I made a large acrylic glove box last year, but I have since had a
better idea.
Make an acrylic box big enough for your pieces with glove holes in one
side.
Leave the top off.
Make a visqueen plastic bag that fits inside the tank and tape it
around the top edges of the tank.
You have to have some holes in the box for the torch hoses, and argon
feed.
Have one hole big enough to connect a small shopvac.
Turn on the shopvac to suck out all the air and make the bag conform to
the inside of the tank.
Now close off that hole and flood in the argon.
Leave a small hole at the top of the bag to allow gases to escape.
Argon is heavier than air.
As the box and bag inflate the air will leak out the top.
Once the bag is completely inflated above the box you have a pretty
pure argon atmosphere, because it had very little air in it to start
with.
If you have a fixed rigid box you have to flow argon through it for a
while to make sure you have gotten all the air out. |
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Jon Elson
Guest
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| Posted: Thu Apr 14, 2005 12:41 am Post subject: Re: titanium |
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Peter Grey wrote:
| Quote: | "Ernie Leimkuhler" <ernie@stagesmith.com> wrote in message
news:130420050049008729%ernie@stagesmith.com...
TIG welding it is easy as long as the entire heat affected zone is
purged of air with argon.
How does one do that? Does it always require a cabinet or dam of some sort,
or could one modify a torch or use it in a way which keeps argon on the HAZ?
It depends greatly on the configuration of the part. It is possible in |
some cases
to just use the TIG torch, and set up some temporary dams to contain the
Argon.
A plate against the back of a butt weld is one way to do it. Sometimes
these
backup plates have holes or channels that are connected to the Argon
supply, too.
For straight-line welds, the heat affected zone can be kept quite small
with proper
TIG techniques. There are other configurations where some kind of box
is just
about required.
It also depends on whether this is aerospace or jewelry, of course!
But, be careful,
as you could easily start a metal fire with Titanium. If you do, the
closest fire
extinguisher is in your hand already, the torch! Hit the fire with pure
Argon, it
sure can't burn in that. But, if the gas shielding is really bad, like
a breeze blowing the
Argon away, you have a problem.
Jon |
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steamer
Guest
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James P Crombie
Guest
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| Posted: Sat Apr 14, 2007 1:51 pm Post subject: Re: Titanium |
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best wire wrote:
| Quote: | Anyone have a tips for turning Titanium? Trying to take a 1.250 bar
down to 1.000. If there are any suggestions out there regarding speeds/
feeds/coolant/cutter material/cutter positioning/ alignment of the
planets, or anything else would be greatly appreciated.
Sonny
"somedays you're the pigeon and somedays you're the statue"
I havn't done a lot of it but I found that very sharp ground edge |
carbide inserts work best, and you can tell when they get dull, which
will happen quickly once it goes. I was using Kennametal CNMP 432 KC730
insets, these are high positive ground edge TiN coated. |
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