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KENG
Guest
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 Posted: Tue Jan 18, 2005 6:21 am Post subject: Intermittent stall 92 Century |
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Arggg I'm so flustrated......
Car:
92 Buick Century, V6, 3.3L, 161K miles
Problem:
Stalls intermittently, no stumble prior, it just stops. Like the key was
turned off. No codes are stored. All the warning lights come on when it
stops. Usually it will restart fine. Sometimes it well restart then
stall again it may take a minute, or it may stall again immediately. If
I'm at highway speed, all I feel is a slight hesitation when it does
this. It seems worse when it's cold outside, and the engine is warm, but
only slightly. It is a pain in stop and go driving, but highway driving
is not too bad. Sometimes when I restart I will get a high idle like the
motor is cold.
What Ive done so far:
Replaced battery.
Replaced battery cables.
Installed grounds from block to trans to body.
Reseated all fuses and sensor connectors.
Replaced MAP sensor.
Replaced ECU.
Replaced Ignition control/coil pack.
KenG |
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Lawrence Glickman
Guest
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| Posted: Tue Jan 18, 2005 6:29 am Post subject: Re: Intermittent stall 92 Century |
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On Tue, 18 Jan 2005 01:21:10 GMT, KENG <KEN@dont.spam.me.com> wrote:
| Quote: | Arggg I'm so flustrated......
Car:
92 Buick Century, V6, 3.3L, 161K miles
Problem:
Stalls intermittently, no stumble prior, it just stops. Like the key was
turned off. No codes are stored. All the warning lights come on when it
stops. Usually it will restart fine. Sometimes it well restart then
stall again it may take a minute, or it may stall again immediately. If
I'm at highway speed, all I feel is a slight hesitation when it does
this. It seems worse when it's cold outside, and the engine is warm, but
only slightly. It is a pain in stop and go driving, but highway driving
is not too bad. Sometimes when I restart I will get a high idle like the
motor is cold.
What Ive done so far:
Replaced battery.
Replaced battery cables.
Installed grounds from block to trans to body.
Reseated all fuses and sensor connectors.
Replaced MAP sensor.
Replaced ECU.
Replaced Ignition control/coil pack.
KenG
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I don't see anything in here about the fuel delivery system..........
You should have a fuel pressure regulator
You should have a clean fuel filter
you should have a fuel pump supplying sufficient flow to the engine at
the correct pressure.
This is *classic* fuel starvation symptom.
Lg |
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KENG
Guest
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| Posted: Tue Jan 18, 2005 7:37 am Post subject: Re: Intermittent stall 92 Century |
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I considered that. But I do not think that it is a fuel starvation
issue, with the exception that it might be caused by an interuption of
the trigger or power to the injectors. When the problem occures, there
is no in-between, it is on or off. When it occurs at speed, it feels
like a stumble (which could point to starvation), but the higher RPMs
keep the motor turning until the event passes. Lets say that the fuel
pump has a low delivery pressure, the symptom would likely be
alternately surging and bogging. If the fuel filter is clogged, the same
symptoms, with the exception that it would likely be worse at higher
throttle/speed, and near normal at idle. Insufficient flow would be
similar. Intermittent signal to the pump would have some run-on after
the pump stopped. There is no lead up to the events, it's running
perfect one moment, then it is not running AT ALL for say 15(arbitrary
number) revs if it has enough inertia to turn 15 times then it will
continue running, if it does not it will stop. I can even feel it on
decel when there is minimal fuel flow. If the fuel pressure regulator
dumps the pressure totally and immediately, then a second later,
pressurized again it could cause these symptoms. I will however do some
testing in that area, since it is more easily checked.
KenG
Lawrence Glickman wrote:
| Quote: | On Tue, 18 Jan 2005 01:21:10 GMT, KENG <KEN@dont.spam.me.com> wrote:
Arggg I'm so flustrated......
Car:
92 Buick Century, V6, 3.3L, 161K miles
Problem:
Stalls intermittently, no stumble prior, it just stops. Like the key was
turned off. No codes are stored. All the warning lights come on when it
stops. Usually it will restart fine. Sometimes it well restart then
stall again it may take a minute, or it may stall again immediately. If
I'm at highway speed, all I feel is a slight hesitation when it does
this. It seems worse when it's cold outside, and the engine is warm, but
only slightly. It is a pain in stop and go driving, but highway driving
is not too bad. Sometimes when I restart I will get a high idle like the
motor is cold.
What Ive done so far:
Replaced battery.
Replaced battery cables.
Installed grounds from block to trans to body.
Reseated all fuses and sensor connectors.
Replaced MAP sensor.
Replaced ECU.
Replaced Ignition control/coil pack.
KenG
I don't see anything in here about the fuel delivery system..........
You should have a fuel pressure regulator
You should have a clean fuel filter
you should have a fuel pump supplying sufficient flow to the engine at
the correct pressure.
This is *classic* fuel starvation symptom.
Lg
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Lawrence Glickman
Guest
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| Posted: Tue Jan 18, 2005 8:00 am Post subject: Re: Intermittent stall 92 Century |
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On Tue, 18 Jan 2005 02:37:50 GMT, KENG <KEN@dont.spam.me.com> wrote:
| Quote: | I considered that. But I do not think that it is a fuel starvation
issue, with the exception that it might be caused by an interuption of
the trigger or power to the injectors. When the problem occures, there
is no in-between, it is on or off. When it occurs at speed, it feels
like a stumble (which could point to starvation), but the higher RPMs
keep the motor turning until the event passes. Lets say that the fuel
pump has a low delivery pressure, the symptom would likely be
alternately surging and bogging. If the fuel filter is clogged, the same
symptoms, with the exception that it would likely be worse at higher
throttle/speed, and near normal at idle. Insufficient flow would be
similar. Intermittent signal to the pump would have some run-on after
the pump stopped. There is no lead up to the events, it's running
perfect one moment, then it is not running AT ALL for say 15(arbitrary
number) revs if it has enough inertia to turn 15 times then it will
continue running, if it does not it will stop. I can even feel it on
decel when there is minimal fuel flow. If the fuel pressure regulator
dumps the pressure totally and immediately, then a second later,
pressurized again it could cause these symptoms. I will however do some
testing in that area, since it is more easily checked.
KenG
|
I'm sorry I don't know. I suspect low fuel pressure, or sticking
throttle plate. On my car ( lucky me ) I can see if this happens with
my flight recorder ( Davis Carchip e/x ). I notice one time
OVERpressure from fuel pump just at startup, but then engine normaled
out, and it only happened once.
It is going to -1F and I suspect there was ice in the fuel line, that
is my idea. That caused a surge in pressure until it was cleared from
the system. It is just my explantion of what "possibly" happened with
my car.
As Don Bruder says, it is difficult to diagnose some thing *long
distance* when you can't see the car, and to be honest, I don't want
to see any cars at this temperature outside ;-)
I don't know where you live, but if it is up North where I am, that
fuel pump might be fighting ice in the fuel lines. So, you can put
HEET into your gas tank, or something like that which is O2 sensor
Safe. At this temperature, no car engine likes to be started and even
when it is, you have nothing to keep your fuel lines from freezing.
Lg
| Quote: | Lawrence Glickman wrote:
On Tue, 18 Jan 2005 01:21:10 GMT, KENG <KEN@dont.spam.me.com> wrote:
Arggg I'm so flustrated......
Car:
92 Buick Century, V6, 3.3L, 161K miles
Problem:
Stalls intermittently, no stumble prior, it just stops. Like the key was
turned off. No codes are stored. All the warning lights come on when it
stops. Usually it will restart fine. Sometimes it well restart then
stall again it may take a minute, or it may stall again immediately. If
I'm at highway speed, all I feel is a slight hesitation when it does
this. It seems worse when it's cold outside, and the engine is warm, but
only slightly. It is a pain in stop and go driving, but highway driving
is not too bad. Sometimes when I restart I will get a high idle like the
motor is cold.
What Ive done so far:
Replaced battery.
Replaced battery cables.
Installed grounds from block to trans to body.
Reseated all fuses and sensor connectors.
Replaced MAP sensor.
Replaced ECU.
Replaced Ignition control/coil pack.
KenG
I don't see anything in here about the fuel delivery system..........
You should have a fuel pressure regulator
You should have a clean fuel filter
you should have a fuel pump supplying sufficient flow to the engine at
the correct pressure.
This is *classic* fuel starvation symptom.
Lg
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Bob
Guest
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| Posted: Tue Jan 18, 2005 8:37 am Post subject: Re: Intermittent stall 92 Century |
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"KENG" <KEN@dont.spam.me.com> wrote in message
news:2E_Gd.23851$fE4.4445062@twister.southeast.rr.com...
| Quote: | I considered that. But I do not think that it is a fuel starvation issue,
with the exception that it might be caused by an interuption of the trigger
or power to the injectors. When the problem occures, there is no
in-between, it is on or off. When it occurs at speed, it feels like a
stumble (which could point to starvation), but the higher RPMs keep the
motor turning until the event passes. Lets say that the fuel pump has a low
delivery pressure, the symptom would likely be alternately surging and
bogging. If the fuel filter is clogged, the same symptoms, with the
exception that it would likely be worse at higher throttle/speed, and near
normal at idle. Insufficient flow would be similar. Intermittent signal to
the pump would have some run-on after the pump stopped. There is no lead
up to the events, it's running perfect one moment, then it is not running
AT ALL for say 15(arbitrary number) revs if it has enough inertia to turn
15 times then it will continue running, if it does not it will stop. I can
even feel it on decel when there is minimal fuel flow. If the fuel pressure
regulator dumps the pressure totally and immediately, then a second later,
pressurized again it could cause these symptoms. I will however do some
testing in that area, since it is more easily checked.
KenG
|
It's pretty obvious to me that you have much more knowledge about your
problem then Glickman does. He repaired his own car once and now likes to
bore everyone with his wild assed guesses Although checking fuel pressure
is never a bad idea when dealing with a drivability problem, I don't believe
you'll find your problem there. I didn't see any mention of crankshaft
position sensor on your list of replaced items... have you checked it? Good
luck, intermittent, no code problems can be a *** but I think you're on
the right track.
Bob |
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Lawrence Glickman
Guest
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| Posted: Tue Jan 18, 2005 8:46 am Post subject: Re: Intermittent stall 92 Century |
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On Mon, 17 Jan 2005 21:37:02 -0600, "Bob" <bob@n0spam.net> wrote:
| Quote: | It's pretty obvious to me that you have much more knowledge about your
problem then Glickman does.
|
It is pretty obvious to me that Ken has much more knowledge about his
problem than Bob does. In fact, "Bob" has never even SEEN Ken's car.
He wouldn't know it was Ken's car if he walked into it.
| Quote: | He repaired his own car once and now likes to
bore everyone with his wild assed guesses Although checking fuel pressure
is never a bad idea when dealing with a drivability problem, I don't believe
you'll find your problem there. I didn't see any mention of crankshaft
position sensor on your list of replaced items... have you checked it? Good
luck, intermittent, no code problems can be a *** but I think you're on
the right track.
Bob
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You're a ***. ESAD.
Lg |
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« Paul »
Guest
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| Posted: Tue Jan 18, 2005 9:35 am Post subject: Re: Intermittent stall 92 Century |
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KENG wrote:
| Quote: |
Arggg I'm so flustrated......
Car:
92 Buick Century, V6, 3.3L, 161K miles
Problem:
Stalls intermittently, no stumble prior, it just stops. Like the key was
turned off. No codes are stored. All the warning lights come on when it
stops. Usually it will restart fine. Sometimes it well restart then
stall again it may take a minute, or it may stall again immediately. If
I'm at highway speed, all I feel is a slight hesitation when it does
this. It seems worse when it's cold outside, and the engine is warm, but
only slightly. It is a pain in stop and go driving, but highway driving
is not too bad. Sometimes when I restart I will get a high idle like the
motor is cold.
What Ive done so far:
Replaced battery.
Replaced battery cables.
Installed grounds from block to trans to body.
Reseated all fuses and sensor connectors.
Replaced MAP sensor.
Replaced ECU.
Replaced Ignition control/coil pack.
KenG
|
Randomly replacing parts can get expensive.
However, if I was allowed to replace only ONE part on your car,
it would be the crank sensor. |
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Lawrence Glickman
Guest
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| Posted: Tue Jan 18, 2005 9:57 am Post subject: Re: Intermittent stall 92 Century |
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On Tue, 18 Jan 2005 04:35:12 GMT, "« Paul »" <"
˘stayp"@notsuoh.rr.moco> wrote:
| Quote: | KENG wrote:
Arggg I'm so flustrated......
Car:
92 Buick Century, V6, 3.3L, 161K miles
Problem:
Stalls intermittently, no stumble prior, it just stops. Like the key was
turned off. No codes are stored. All the warning lights come on when it
stops. Usually it will restart fine. Sometimes it well restart then
stall again it may take a minute, or it may stall again immediately. If
I'm at highway speed, all I feel is a slight hesitation when it does
this. It seems worse when it's cold outside, and the engine is warm, but
only slightly. It is a pain in stop and go driving, but highway driving
is not too bad. Sometimes when I restart I will get a high idle like the
motor is cold.
What Ive done so far:
Replaced battery.
Replaced battery cables.
Installed grounds from block to trans to body.
Reseated all fuses and sensor connectors.
Replaced MAP sensor.
Replaced ECU.
Replaced Ignition control/coil pack.
KenG
Randomly replacing parts can get expensive.
However, if I was allowed to replace only ONE part on your car,
it would be the crank sensor.
|
Don't you think he can measure the voltage from that crank sensor
before going through all the trouble to replace it? Really.
Why replace something if it is not part of the problem. His job now,
if the crank sensor is under suspicion, is to INVESTIGATE. Put a
scope meter on the output and turn the car over, and see if he is
getting 700 millivolts or better. If he is, he can FORGET about
replacing the crank sensor.
Lg |
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Bob
Guest
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| Posted: Tue Jan 18, 2005 10:19 am Post subject: Re: Intermittent stall 92 Century |
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"Lawrence Glickman" <Lawrence_Glickman@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:5m5pu0pi819lia7u6m3ujvgna2dgjlgde4@4ax.com...
| Quote: | On Tue, 18 Jan 2005 04:35:12 GMT, "« Paul »" <"
˘stayp"@notsuoh.rr.moco> wrote:
KENG wrote:
Arggg I'm so flustrated......
Car:
92 Buick Century, V6, 3.3L, 161K miles
Problem:
Stalls intermittently, no stumble prior, it just stops. Like the key was
turned off. No codes are stored. All the warning lights come on when it
stops. Usually it will restart fine. Sometimes it well restart then
stall again it may take a minute, or it may stall again immediately. If
I'm at highway speed, all I feel is a slight hesitation when it does
this. It seems worse when it's cold outside, and the engine is warm, but
only slightly. It is a pain in stop and go driving, but highway driving
is not too bad. Sometimes when I restart I will get a high idle like the
motor is cold.
What Ive done so far:
Replaced battery.
Replaced battery cables.
Installed grounds from block to trans to body.
Reseated all fuses and sensor connectors.
Replaced MAP sensor.
Replaced ECU.
Replaced Ignition control/coil pack.
KenG
Randomly replacing parts can get expensive.
However, if I was allowed to replace only ONE part on your car,
it would be the crank sensor.
Don't you think he can measure the voltage from that crank sensor
before going through all the trouble to replace it? Really.
Why replace something if it is not part of the problem. His job now,
if the crank sensor is under suspicion, is to INVESTIGATE. Put a
scope meter on the output and turn the car over, and see if he is
getting 700 millivolts or better. If he is, he can FORGET about
replacing the crank sensor.
Lg
ROFLMFAO..... sure thing Larry...... any crank sensor putting out 700mv or |
better is good! hahaha. You don't know enough about drivability problems to
even waste my time on, in other words you're even more of a dumb ass than I
originally thought............
Bob |
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Lawrence Glickman
Guest
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| Posted: Tue Jan 18, 2005 10:36 am Post subject: Re: Intermittent stall 92 Century |
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On Mon, 17 Jan 2005 23:19:07 -0600, "Bob" <bob@n0spam.net> wrote:
| Quote: |
"Lawrence Glickman" <Lawrence_Glickman@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:5m5pu0pi819lia7u6m3ujvgna2dgjlgde4@4ax.com...
On Tue, 18 Jan 2005 04:35:12 GMT, "« Paul »" <"
˘stayp"@notsuoh.rr.moco> wrote:
KENG wrote:
Arggg I'm so flustrated......
Car:
92 Buick Century, V6, 3.3L, 161K miles
Problem:
Stalls intermittently, no stumble prior, it just stops. Like the key was
turned off. No codes are stored. All the warning lights come on when it
stops. Usually it will restart fine. Sometimes it well restart then
stall again it may take a minute, or it may stall again immediately. If
I'm at highway speed, all I feel is a slight hesitation when it does
this. It seems worse when it's cold outside, and the engine is warm, but
only slightly. It is a pain in stop and go driving, but highway driving
is not too bad. Sometimes when I restart I will get a high idle like the
motor is cold.
What Ive done so far:
Replaced battery.
Replaced battery cables.
Installed grounds from block to trans to body.
Reseated all fuses and sensor connectors.
Replaced MAP sensor.
Replaced ECU.
Replaced Ignition control/coil pack.
KenG
Randomly replacing parts can get expensive.
However, if I was allowed to replace only ONE part on your car,
it would be the crank sensor.
Don't you think he can measure the voltage from that crank sensor
before going through all the trouble to replace it? Really.
Why replace something if it is not part of the problem. His job now,
if the crank sensor is under suspicion, is to INVESTIGATE. Put a
scope meter on the output and turn the car over, and see if he is
getting 700 millivolts or better. If he is, he can FORGET about
replacing the crank sensor.
Lg
ROFLMFAO..... sure thing Larry...... any crank sensor putting out 700mv or
better is good! hahaha. You don't know enough about drivability problems to
even waste my time on, in other words you're even more of a dumb ass than I
originally thought............
Bob
|
700 millivolt is the _unprocessed_ voltage from the crank sensor,
Nitwit. Further up the line, it gets turned into a logic Hi of 5
volts. Probably by an operational amplifier. In the signal
processing areas of the car.
You just demonstrated your COMPLETE void of knowledge when it comes to
electronics.
And I mean by that, you've just received an F- ( unfortunately we
cannot give out grades below 100% incorrect ).
Lg |
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« Paul »
Guest
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| Posted: Tue Jan 18, 2005 10:49 am Post subject: Re: Intermittent stall 92 Century |
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Lawrence Glickman wrote:
| Quote: |
On Tue, 18 Jan 2005 04:35:12 GMT, "« Paul »" <"
˘stayp"@notsuoh.rr.moco> wrote:
KENG wrote:
Arggg I'm so flustrated......
Car:
92 Buick Century, V6, 3.3L, 161K miles
Problem:
Stalls intermittently, no stumble prior, it just stops. Like the key was
turned off. No codes are stored. All the warning lights come on when it
stops. Usually it will restart fine. Sometimes it well restart then
stall again it may take a minute, or it may stall again immediately. If
I'm at highway speed, all I feel is a slight hesitation when it does
this. It seems worse when it's cold outside, and the engine is warm, but
only slightly. It is a pain in stop and go driving, but highway driving
is not too bad. Sometimes when I restart I will get a high idle like the
motor is cold.
What Ive done so far:
Replaced battery.
Replaced battery cables.
Installed grounds from block to trans to body.
Reseated all fuses and sensor connectors.
Replaced MAP sensor.
Replaced ECU.
Replaced Ignition control/coil pack.
KenG
Randomly replacing parts can get expensive.
However, if I was allowed to replace only ONE part on your car,
it would be the crank sensor.
Don't you think he can measure the voltage from that crank sensor
before going through all the trouble to replace it? Really.
Why replace something if it is not part of the problem. His job now,
if the crank sensor is under suspicion, is to INVESTIGATE. Put a
scope meter on the output and turn the car over, and see if he is
getting 700 millivolts or better. If he is, he can FORGET about
replacing the crank sensor.
Lg
|
Yup. Most people don't have the proper diagnosis tools though.
His car is 92 and the inductive crank sensor should be going bad
about now. 2v pp sine would be a decent crank voltage.
12v pp sine decent run voltage. The problem with crank sensors
is that they frequently go intermitant for months before they finally
give out altogether.
Checking the sine voltage when it is working would show a good sensor.
If he could get it to not start or not run, and have a hot engine,
then, maybe, a scope would show no, low, or ragged sine.
paul. |
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Lawrence Glickman
Guest
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| Posted: Tue Jan 18, 2005 10:57 am Post subject: Re: Intermittent stall 92 Century |
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On Tue, 18 Jan 2005 05:49:15 GMT, "« Paul »" <"
˘stayp"@notsuoh.rr.moco> wrote:
| Quote: | Lawrence Glickman wrote:
On Tue, 18 Jan 2005 04:35:12 GMT, "« Paul »" <"
˘stayp"@notsuoh.rr.moco> wrote:
KENG wrote:
Arggg I'm so flustrated......
Car:
92 Buick Century, V6, 3.3L, 161K miles
Problem:
Stalls intermittently, no stumble prior, it just stops. Like the key was
turned off. No codes are stored. All the warning lights come on when it
stops. Usually it will restart fine. Sometimes it well restart then
stall again it may take a minute, or it may stall again immediately. If
I'm at highway speed, all I feel is a slight hesitation when it does
this. It seems worse when it's cold outside, and the engine is warm, but
only slightly. It is a pain in stop and go driving, but highway driving
is not too bad. Sometimes when I restart I will get a high idle like the
motor is cold.
What Ive done so far:
Replaced battery.
Replaced battery cables.
Installed grounds from block to trans to body.
Reseated all fuses and sensor connectors.
Replaced MAP sensor.
Replaced ECU.
Replaced Ignition control/coil pack.
KenG
Randomly replacing parts can get expensive.
However, if I was allowed to replace only ONE part on your car,
it would be the crank sensor.
Don't you think he can measure the voltage from that crank sensor
before going through all the trouble to replace it? Really.
Why replace something if it is not part of the problem. His job now,
if the crank sensor is under suspicion, is to INVESTIGATE. Put a
scope meter on the output and turn the car over, and see if he is
getting 700 millivolts or better. If he is, he can FORGET about
replacing the crank sensor.
Lg
Yup. Most people don't have the proper diagnosis tools though.
His car is 92 and the inductive crank sensor should be going bad
about now. 2v pp sine would be a decent crank voltage.
12v pp sine decent run voltage. The problem with crank sensors
is that they frequently go intermitant for months before they finally
give out altogether.
Checking the sine voltage when it is working would show a good sensor.
If he could get it to not start or not run, and have a hot engine,
then, maybe, a scope would show no, low, or ragged sine.
paul.
|
Yah, that is my own experience, many decades of experience with
different sensor technologies. You have an analog input to a digital
converter, called an A/D converter ( for analog to digital ) that
takes that little sensor signal and turns it into a Logic Hi or Lo.
It is what I would do, before going to the trouble of replacing
=anything=. Confirm the component as Good or Not Good. As you say,
shotgunning can get very expensive, and you know Ken's frustration
level is probably by now at an all time high.
I will say I am Lucky, because I have some toys that are made for just
such a job. Without some reliable recording/measuring device, OP will
have great difficulty justifying all the work of replacing that
sensor, only to find out that ISN'T the problem.
Lg |
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Billy Bad Assr©
Guest
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| Posted: Tue Jan 18, 2005 6:17 pm Post subject: Re: Intermittent stall 92 Century |
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"KENG" <KEN@dont.spam.me.com> wrote in message
news:awZGd.23291$fE4.4405658@twister.southeast.rr.com...
| Quote: | Arggg I'm so flustrated......
Car:
92 Buick Century, V6, 3.3L, 161K miles
Problem:
Stalls intermittently, no stumble prior, it just stops. Like the key was
turned off. No codes are stored. All the warning lights come on when it
stops. Usually it will restart fine. Sometimes it well restart then
stall again it may take a minute, or it may stall again immediately. If
I'm at highway speed, all I feel is a slight hesitation when it does
this. It seems worse when it's cold outside, and the engine is warm, but
only slightly. It is a pain in stop and go driving, but highway driving
is not too bad. Sometimes when I restart I will get a high idle like the
motor is cold.
What Ive done so far:
Replaced battery.
Replaced battery cables.
Installed grounds from block to trans to body.
Reseated all fuses and sensor connectors.
Replaced MAP sensor.
Replaced ECU.
Replaced Ignition control/coil pack.
KenG
|
Sounds like an ignition problem - but you said you replaced that i.e. R/R
"electronic ignition module"? Perhaps a faulty fuel pump? A faulty fuel
delivery system may cause all kinds of drivability issues.
Perhaps a bad or intermittent electrical connection! Check your electrical
connections - 1st I would check the connections @ the A/T. look for a big fat
plug - 4 or 5 prongs! Remove that plug. Check that the terminals are not loose.
You can use a pair of needle nose pliers to carefully crimp one side of the
terminal a bit. Before connecting I would apply a dab of dielectric grease for
added protection/insulation.
How long from a cold start does it take to stall?
Is it necessary to drive the vehicle in order for engine to stall or will engine
stall at an idle?
Does the engine go into closed loop before engine stalls?
Once engine stalls - what happens when you attempt a restart?
--
BBA
°?°
BBA's RC Site - http://www.billybadassrc.com
When Privacy Matters -- http://www.epic.org/ |
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aarcuda69062
Guest
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| Posted: Tue Jan 18, 2005 6:50 pm Post subject: Re: Intermittent stall 92 Century |
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In article <9u7pu0517s018uj8578c6nrasgp56135ij@4ax.com>,
Lawrence Glickman <Lawrence_Glickman@comcast.net> wrote:
| Quote: | 700 millivolt is the _unprocessed_ voltage from the crank sensor,
Nitwit. Further up the line, it gets turned into a logic Hi of 5
volts. Probably by an operational amplifier. In the signal
processing areas of the car.
You just demonstrated your COMPLETE void of knowledge when it comes to
electronics.
And I mean by that, you've just received an F- ( unfortunately we
cannot give out grades below 100% incorrect ).
Lg
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Sorry to rain on your parade, but a 92 Buick 3.3 would have a
Hall Effect switch for a crank position sensor, 700mv wouldn't be
appropriate. No need for the A/D conversion since it's already a
square wave in its raw form. |
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aarcuda69062
Guest
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| Posted: Tue Jan 18, 2005 6:53 pm Post subject: Re: Intermittent stall 92 Century |
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In article <41ECA3AB.B278D6BC@notsuoh.rr.moco>,
"« Paul »" <" ˘stayp"@notsuoh.rr.moco> wrote:
| Quote: | Yup. Most people don't have the proper diagnosis tools though.
His car is 92 and the inductive crank sensor should be going bad
about now. 2v pp sine would be a decent crank voltage.
12v pp sine decent run voltage. The problem with crank sensors
is that they frequently go intermitant for months before they finally
give out altogether.
Checking the sine voltage when it is working would show a good sensor.
If he could get it to not start or not run, and have a hot engine,
then, maybe, a scope would show no, low, or ragged sine.
paul.
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Except that it's not an inductive crank sensor.
Hall Switch! |
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